Thursday 19 July 2012

An Experiment

It's the last day but I am running out of things to write, so I thought I would experiment with some videos. I don't have much in the way of editing software so apologies in advance but I hope you enjoy it anyway.

It will at least be a good record for us of the house.

The audio on the beach is particularly poor and the weather is unusually bad but it is still worth it.

Sadly the vacation is at an end. One final walk on the beach remains

 

Wednesday 18 July 2012

Getting the hang of it

Over a week ago we first went to the beach. Pippin found it all rather distressing and when we went into the water she actually swam after us. Today she got up onto a deck-chair and went to sleep. She took a little stroll to another group later, presumably because someone had opened a packet of biscuits. Harriet's friends were back at the beach again so they were soon building sandcastles.

In short everyone knew what they were doing and the day ran like clockwork. Tomorrow is the last full day and on Friday we return to New York City.

It is much too sad to contemplate.

Tuesday 17 July 2012

The Best Laid Plans

We were under orders today: the beach, all day. So we loaded the cart with deck chairs, parasols, floats, buckets and the boat. We loaded the cool box with life's essentials: water, lunchables, salami, coke, beer, more beer, another bottle of beer and a homemade margarita and mango cocktail.

The house is close to the beach but you need to cross a bridge over the dunes to reach it. The heavy cart and cool box were lifted up the steps and then down. At least we would be there for the whole day, to make it worthwhile.

The surf was fierce and the waves were really pounding the shore. The seaweed had returned but otherwise all was well. Harriet collected shells and fished for seaweed with her net. She made sand 'pancakes' and we got to see another couple of military jets soar overhead. The sun was as fierce as the surf but while taking photographs J noticed just how dramatic the clouds behind us were.

Soon enough we noticed that people were packing up and leaving. The dramatic clouds had got dark all of a sudden and as we too packed up thunder could be heard in the distance. After only a couple of hours we were crossing that damned bridge again. Fortunately we made it back to house and there was no rain - indeed we speculated that it would miss us altogether now we were back.

Harriet had eaten lunch on the beach so she went for her nap. The lightning and thunder carried on in the distance - growing increasingly strong but still at a distance. By the time Harriet got up the rain had started in earnest. We have had rain here before but it usually lasts an hour at most. However, this time Harriet's cartoons were interrupted by an announcement that warned of severe thunderstorms. A red banner flashed across the cartoon as the warning was read out. I confess it made us slightly nervous although the weather websites made it clear that we were only on the peripheries.

The rain has just eased so Pip and I could go out. It wasn't quite the beach day we had wanted but it was a good rest day nonetheless. Let us see what tomorrow has in store.

Monday 16 July 2012

Sharks and Raptors

Gosh I feel exhausted, broken even. It's 9.30 and I can't go to bed yet because I have to take Pippin out. That's the part of the day I like the least because the bugs are out in force, so I have to spray myself with some foul smelling stuff just to survive. The entire place comes alive and I am especially paranoid about snakes - last night I knew that Pippin had found something but fortunately it turned out to be a giant frog. We are a long way from the nearest vet so I need to keep an eye on her.

Still, a good part of the day follows immediately when I can sleep. Did I mention already that I am tired?

Holidays will do that to you of course. There is no such thing as relax with a three year old. She's really into imagination games at the moment so from the moment she wakes we are pretending to cook, to drive, to shop or whatever it is. Breakfasts, indeed most meals, take an age. In the swimming pool she plans all sorts of elaborate games that you had better just go along with, or face the consequences.

The pool was crowded this morning but ok. In the afternoon, after the thunderstorm, we went to the beach and Harriet made friends with a couple of children: a three year old girl and four year old boy. They had a brilliant time running around together.

Harriet really did have a wonderful time. In no uncertain terms have we been told that we are going to the beach tomorrow for the whole day.

There were a few interesting sights on the beach. A couple of guys who were fishing caught a small shark. This is not as dramatic as it sounds. The water is very shallow for about fifty meters from the shore before it becomes suddenly deep. People wade out to the edge and fish - there are plenty of large fish there that you can actually see in the waves themselves and plenty more jumping out of the water. There is no risk from sharks in the shallow although there are plenty of small fish.

The other exciting thing was seeing a couple of F-22 Raptor fighters (I think) from the nearby Tyndall air force base. They move breathtakingly quickly and noisily.

10pm now so I can take Pip out and try to prepare for tomorrow. Night night.

Sunday 15 July 2012

Goldilocks Day

The mosquito coil is slowly burning and though it is still light I know that soon it will be as though someone has flipped the switch to send us into darkness. It has been a Goldilocks day - not too hot, not too cold but just right.

We began the day, as usual, with a trip to the pool. Unlike yesterday there were other people there, new people we had not seen before. They stared, like they always do though the eldest woman did speak to Harriet later in a very friendly way.

We overhead her say that she was going to spend the winter "up north". This turned to out to mean not Canada or Maine but Charleston, South Carolina. This reminded me of a Cornish couple I met once who told me they were leaving Truro for the "big smoke". They meant Exeter.

The afternoon required a trip to the store (beer we had none) and a return to the pool. The evening finished with a walk along the shore and steaks on the barbecue. As befits the day the steaks were perfect.

Saturday 14 July 2012

All Quiet

Strangely, now the weekend has arrived it has become much quieter. For the first time we were the only people in the pool this morning. We remembered finally to take the underwater camera - a Kodak disposable that is encased in plastic and works by focusing light on photographic film. We have absolutely no idea what the pictures look like because they need to be "developed". Did we really live this way?

In the afternoon we took the boat to the beach, which was also much quieter. It was a bit of fiasco because H is not interested in being confined and wants to swim freely in the sea. A wave knocked the boat over and J's sunglasses were headed to Davy Jones's Locker. Luckily our practice in the pool with masks paid off and he managed to find them. We returned to the shore soon after.

It was windy so we couldn't just leave the boat on the beach, so one of us had to sit in it while H collected shells with the other. We have quite the collection building up.

After H's dinner we returned for a walk along the beach with Pippin before bed. In the morning she has recently been watching Madagascar 2, which I downloaded to my iPad. As a little treat for tomorrow I have downloaded Bee Movie.

For us now it is the quiet part of the day. Time to read a little, write a little and yes drink a little.

Friday 13 July 2012

The Wild Life

It has been raining most of the morning, but before you well up with tears it's ok, we're glad of the break. After all it's warm enough to sit in the lounge with only the bug-screen door open. It should be clear enough in the afternoon to manage a short trip to the pool and the beach. I thought I would write about some of the animal life we have seen and not seen.

First the animals we have not seen. During the drive down from Tallahassee we saw a few road signs warning of the presence of bears. Unsurprisingly we did not see any actual bears but it was a welcome reminder of just how wild the US wildlife is. I wondered out loud whether there would be any alligators here and this was answered a few days later when we saw a van advertising the service of removing 'nuisance alligators'. I guess having an alligator in your pond is something of a nuisance.

Finally on the no-see list is the sea turtle. There are signs warning us to keep beach-front lights out because they may confuse turtles. I'm happy enough not to see them though because we have probably caused enough of a nuisance and they should be well away from our dog-friendly beach.

Dogs are among the most commonly sighted mammals here of course, although we have seen someone walking their cat. They come in all shapes and sizes: Pip is by no means the smallest or indeed not the only Westie. The largest is an English Mastiff who is a gentle giant, not to be confused with the other shouty Westies.

There is a pond behind our house filled with turtles and fish. If you make the mistake of standing still on the balcony they will flock to you. Obviously our predecessors have fed them and though we offer nothing still they come.

Among all the insects (many different dragonflies) and birds (the cardinal is spectacular) The animal I am most pleased to have spotted: a long black snake. Another welcome reminder of just how wild the wildlife is.

Thursday 12 July 2012

So what's new?

Not much really. We went to the heated pool, twice, and went to the Piggly Wiggly for a few odds and ends. There was a truly torrential downpour while we were in the Piggly Wiggly and though it eased off to allow us to load the car we drove home into the storm. Fortunately people are used to driving in this so it was not the chaos we remembered from LA in the rain.

The only real novelty I can offer is that I have started a new book: Steinbeck's The Grapes of Wrath. I have started it before but not made it far, but it seems like an appropriate book to read in these times of calamity (it is set in the Great Depression).

The truth is that though we are having a fantastic, magical time we live in the same world as everyone else. I am conflicted when I post here about the fun we're having and especially when I post photographs. It's not that we get any hostile comments, indeed it's much more likely that those who disapprove simply ignore all our posts while being conspicuously active elsewhere. I am concerned too about personal matters, particularly work, as well as more global matters but let's leave it at that for now.

We've spoken to a few more people today and revealed a bit more about ourselves. "I knew from that accent y'all weren't from round here". We've even overheard a few attempts at a British accent (as in New York people seem to think the British say "Hello" repeatedly and with ever increasing pitch).

Hopefully, more of the same tomorrow on an auspicious Friday 13th.

Wednesday 11 July 2012

Sailing By

A trip to the store was needed so we took the car for the short trip. Shopping with Harriet is problematic because everything she sets her eye on becomes something she's always wanted. Often once she has declared that something is all she wants in the world, she then asks exactly what it is so we have to describe it. It's extremely difficult to be presented with a random object and have to describe it in a way a three year old finds satisfactory. It's a test you see, she knows the answer, and if I foolishly describe the statue as an alligator sitting on a tree stump then I am loudly corrected: IT'S A CROCODILE!

So we were in the store and she became infatuated with a bat that had a ball attached by elastic. "I want to play tennis. Please? I love to play tennis. Please?". We have bought her an inflatable boat but who cares? Tennis fades when we pass the coffee machine and she then insists on a styrofoam cup (this is a common flashpoint).

We resist and set off with the boat, which the store kindly inflated. Back at the beach we took it out for its inaugural trip in the Gulf. It was very pleasant - cooler than the day before because of the clouds above. However, the benefit soon faded and the heavens opened. We fled back to the house and it was a delicious irony to be taking a shower in the car-port while around us the rain hammered the ground.

The rain continued for a while but after that we could pay a visit to the pool and tried to teach H to swim without a flotation aid. She is definitely making progress and will be there very soon.

It's evening now and what is this? Did we pick up a little something for ourselves at the store, some booze and ice-cream perhaps? Too bloody right we did.

Tuesday 10 July 2012

Tonight's Walk

There's something special about taking your dog for the final walk of the night on a beach. Most nights of the year we end up walking behind the Museum of Natural History on Central Park, which is pretty darn special too but of course we never appreciate enough what's close at hand.

The beach was much cooler than the afternoon. Then, the sand was scorching hot and I had to carry Harriet directly to the water because it was just too hot for her feet. In the evening it was pleasant and Pip was happy to run in the sand. We arrived at the same time as a hugely overweight Scottie who waddled to the shore - Pip looked positively young and vital.

What caught my eye was a pelican that was gliding over the water and then landed. I was reminded of our tour of the USS Midway that explained that rather than landing on an aircraft carrier the planes underwent a controlled crash. The pelican seemed to drop suddenly out of flight and land on the water. There were still people swimming nearby but the large bird was unfazed. It stayed there for a while but then suddenly took off and carried on down the coast.

We headed back too where J was starting up the barbecue for tonight's meal.

Sounding Off

It's the sounds that are the hardest to convey. I can take pictures in HD and write thousands of words; I can even rely on the reader or viewer to know how hot is because we've all been somewhere hot and know that feeling.

The sound of this place is new to me so I would suppose it must be the same for others. The general peaceful quiet, with surround sound insect hum and occasional punctuation by the birds are easy. What is harder is to explain the voices of our fellow residents.

My knowledge of the South does not go far: I've read To Kill A Mockingbird and The Help and watched Cat on a Hot Tin Roof but that is not saying much. I watch True Blood of course, and that provides my main reference point for the accent (though I know too well that many of the principal characters are foreign even to these United States).

This morning, as I expect will be the case on many mornings hereafter, we spent the day in the clubhouse pool. There are two pools in this estate but this one is larger and cooler, with direct views across the beach below to the Gulf of Mexico.

I love to listen to the voices around me. As far as I can tell they are all Southern US accents (the license plates corroborate this being mainly from Georgia, Louisiana and Florida - with a sprinkling of Tennessee and Texas). We have the only other accents in the place. It feels friendly and safe although people largely keep to their own groups.

I have to confess that it is not necessarily an accent that I favour instinctively. Like many British people I have much better knowledge of the north east and south west coasts. The south has not exactly endeared itself to me in the little I know of its politics (the anti-gay amendment in North Carolina being the most recent). Florida's wretched role in the 2000 election and the outrageous efforts to exclude voters through new ID laws and purges are especially dismaying. Part of me is almost ashamed that we are spending our money in this state and wish the Supreme Court would drag it into the 21st century.

I suspect this clouds my view of the accent. It's ridiculous too: the idea that the states of New York and California may be characterized uniformly by the few neighbourhoods I have visited is absurd. We know lots of gay families across the country. That said I really feel proud of New York for the recent Pride and though California has no marriage equality yet we still have our magical daughter.

Hopefully we are helping to change attitudes, if indeed they even need to be changed. It's not exactly much of an effort just to have a wonderful time in this beautiful part of the world. And perhaps the main attitude that needs to change is mine.

Monday 9 July 2012

To the Piggly Wiggly and Back

Today was our first day but there was one important task to complete: grocery shopping. We just had to grit our teeth and get in the car. We travelled to the Piggly Wiggly in Port St Joe. That's really the name of the supermarket (familiar to me from reading The Help but I was still amazed it existed)

The heat was still severe and it was a long walk across the car park. We bought so much stuff, much of which was frozen, so it was a comical rush to get the bags into the chilly embrace of the car's air-conditioning.

On the return journey we stopped at the local store for beer (the Piggly Wiggly does not sell but even if it did it the trolley was full). The young cashier gave me the greatest honor by asking for ID. I finally look under forty! He probably just had the over-zealousness of youth and he was visibly amazed by the holograms on my NY ID.

The afternoon was a more pleasant affair, spent entirely in the pool. The house is ready and tomorrow will be the first proper day.

Sunday 8 July 2012

Heading South

Pleasant though Tallahassee was, it was only meant to be a brief stopover before we could go to the beach house we are renting for the holiday. After breakfast we loaded the car and set off. It was excruciatingly hot and so humid that sweat did not evaporate, instead it merely passed downwards under gravity.

The roads were great. Perhaps it is because Tallahassee is the capital city or perhaps it is just the lack of heavy use, but compared to New York's battered highways they are smooth as silk. Still, as we drove on it became increasingly clear just how remote it was becoming. The only regular non-residential buildings were churches and being Sunday their car parks were full.

Eventually we hit the coast and saw the Gulf. Since the house wasn't available till later we took a small detour to St George Island. The park we stopped in was not dog friendly at all but we took a paddle in the water. It was a shock: warm, really warm. All I can say it was like a bath really. Pip had to stay in the car with the air-con on so we did not linger and continued onwards.

The house is in a gated community and has its own private, dog-friendly beach. The ground floor is a covered area for the car, with an outside shower for getting rid of the sand and another shower hose for cleaning your boat.

On the next level is a spacious lounge with a couple of sofas, dining table and huge kitchen. The striking thing is just how beautifully furnished it is. Every little detail suggests that someone has lived here and thought it through. There's a fishing net that cunningly obscures the fuse box and a shelf made from a boat rudder stacked with carved sea-birds. There is a terrace at the rear which overlooks the lake and from which you can fish.

The top floor has two palatial bedrooms, both ensuite and both with terraces. It also is carpeted which is novel.

We opted for a quick trip to the beach. The sand is white, its only fault being how hot it was. The sea is indeed like a bath. Pippin was one of several dogs on the beach but the only one not to care for it. When we were out in the water she plunged in after us although it was clearly no pleasure. It was already six o'clock and we decided that was enough. When we return with chairs and shade Pip may enjoy it more.

At Harriet's insistence we then tried out one of the two swimming pools. Then it was home for dinner and bed. She did not go willingly.

Still, it was not a proper day. That will come tomorrow. We had steaks on the barbeque and then retired to the top terrace. I am writing this under the stars.

Saturday 7 July 2012

A day in Tallahassee

We were all exhausted from yesterday and remarkably managed to sleep until 8am. Breakfast in the hotel is nice enough although we subjected to a TV showing Fox. The young here have been lovely but some of the older people stared openly; not explicitly unfriendly but not friendly either.

J and H went to Wal-Mart to do a bit of shopping. Pippin and I stayed by the pool. The heat was severe so I moved to be under a large bush and Pip dug a hole under my seat. There's an Applebee's attached to the hotel so lunch was there when the wanderers returned.

H had a post-lunch sleep and then the heavens opened. There was thunder and lightning for about an hour but it passed. We could then spend the evening in the outdoor pool. It was so pleasantly warm and a perfect day. Tomorrow we shall be heading to the south for the beginning proper of the vacation.

Friday 6 July 2012

Tally Ho

We set our alarms for 4am. The car came at 5am and we set off. As usual the driver drove badly - this is par for the course here. He hit 80mph on the New Jersey Turnpike. The amazing thing is that Harriet was completely fine: once she would have been travel sick on a smooth 500yd journey.

The surprise for J was that I had managed to get us an upgrade to First Class. It was only when we boarded and he got to his seat did it dawn on him, but he adapted quickly and soon had a pre-takeoff Bloody Mary. It was all rather civilized and made flying actually pleasant.

At Tampa I thought the screen said our flight had been cancelled and that the next one was five hours later. Fortunately it was the arrivals screen and not the departures. Our flight was only one hour delayed.

It was another trip for me on a tiny propellor plane (twenty seats) but the first for J and Harriet. Unlike my trip to Du Bois the weather was fine so it turned out ok. Harriet fell asleep almost immediately. The only other child on the plane screamed most of the way but H slept through it all.

Tallahassee is an unlikely holiday destination but it's only temporary. The flights on Sunday were stupidly expensive so it made sense to come here today and stay in a hotel. We'll be going to the beach house on Sunday for the vacation proper. However, the rest will begin now: nothing ambitious for tomorrow beyond the hotel pool.

Long may it continue.

Pride 2012

Pride returned to New York, a year after the heady days of marriage equality in the state. The previous weekend we met fellow parents at the Rally in the East River Park. This is a kick-off event with some singers, comedians and speeches. Alas the East River park is a mission to reach and the sun was fierce but at least Harriet got to meet the Nesquik bunny.

Commercial sponsorship of LGBTQ events is controversial here and you will frequently hear of conservative groups calling for boycotts. One of the better known is the amusingly named 'One Million Moms' who number their members in the thousands. They are a creation of the American Family Association (and so largely run by men), which has a long history as a hate group. OMM called for a boycott of JC Penney because they used Ellen as a spokesperson. This year it was Oreo cookies that attracted their wrath. OMM are ridiculous because of their lack of success but AFA has a broad reach with hundreds of radio stations.

So that is why I support Pride and oppose those people, particularly the gay ones, who think it harms equality. The enemy is at the gate and whether it is overt hate like AFA or couched in moderate language it can do real harm. The march matters and in New York it's remembered that drag queens started the fight back.

Anyways, back to the parade. We took the subway to Maddison Square Park - the journey I take every weekday because my work overlooks MSQ park. It's a lovely bit of the city - a little square of green with perfect views of the Empire State ten blocks north. At the base is is the iconic, wedge shaped Flatiron building where Fifth Avenue meets Broadway.

It was already busy when we arrived and it took us a while to find our way to the agreed meeting point. There was an organized meetup in the middle of the park but first we stopped to see the parade. As luck would have it we arrived at the same moment George Takei's car reached our spot. He is, of course, Mr Sulu from Star Trek and much more. He is one of the most vocal gay rights campaigners in the US: I first knew this when he released videos condemning the Don't Say Gay (section 28 style bigotry for the UK readers) in TN. He suggested that people use his surname instead of gay if needed (they rhyme). He was dressed in his Scouting uniform and appeared with a woman who had been kicked out of the Boy Scouts because she is a lesbian.

The parade continued with the usual mix of floats and groups. I thought Con Edison's staff did a particularly impressive dance routine. There was a fine cheer-leading routine but the loudest cheer was reserved for the Trevor project. This is a charity that works to prevent teenage suicides among LGBTQ youth (the Q stands for Questioning/Queer). It's a very necessary, worthwhile effort - there are just too many heartbreaking stories here.

The politicians were there too - the governor who brought marriage equality to New York and the speaker of the New York City Council, the openly gay Christine Quinn. Some groups were smaller in number but vocal nonetheless.

We stopped at the meetup for a while - Harriet, T and Gavin ran round the pool in the park again and again and again. Then we had lunch with Elisa and Gavin before watching some more of the parade. We moved down 5th avenue where we saw a Jewish protestor. He had a stuffed dog in a wedding dress and a giant giraffe. A sign explained that if men married men then soon enough men would be marrying dogs and giraffes. Another sign carried the usual quotes from Leviticus.

Some counter protestors stood nearby with signs that read "This guy needs a hobby" but when the Isreali marchers spotted him they flocked round him and taunted him loudly. He left shortly afterwards, dragging his giraffe behind him. His right to protest had been protected (he had been given a segregated area to stand, surrounded by barriers) but good riddance.

It had been an uplifting day that a lone protestor could not diminish. There was an optimistic feeling to the day and it showed just how diverse NYC truly is. Groups like the Trevor project remind us that growing up gay in much of the country seems impossible to many. Whether it is the Boy Scouts or One Million Moms there are national organizations who seek to diminish us. But there on fifth avenue you can see the other side: drag queens and gogo dancers, churches and trades unions, politicians and bankers, sports clubs and drama groups, ex-pats and families, LGBTQ and straight allies. This was our stronghold and a parade that celebrated our best. The challenge comes in the rest of the year to spread the message and win the necessary battles.

Proud.